How to Build the GHS FM 1/100 Aerial GK Conversion Kit Step-by-step installation guide: resin prep, priming, airbrushing, masking, decals, and final assembly

Before You Start: Tools & Materials

Phase 1: Part Inspection & Washing

Step 1 — Inspect All 101 Parts

Lay all parts on a clean surface. Check against the digital manual's parts diagram. Note air bubbles, gates, and parting lines. Small bubbles are normal for hand-cast resin — don't panic.

Step 2 — Wash Every Part

Resin parts carry mold release agent that prevents paint adhesion. Washing is non-negotiable.

1. Fill container with warm water + dish soap
2. Submerge all parts (keep small parts in mesh bag)
3. Scrub every surface with old toothbrush
4. Rinse thoroughly with clean water
5. Air dry completely — 30–60 minutes minimum

Phase 2: Gate Removal & Surface Prep

Step 3 — Remove Gates

Cut away from the part surface leaving a small stub, then sand flush with 400-grit progressing to 800. For antenna parts and thin edge pieces, hold against a flat surface while sanding — do not flex. GHS's sharpened edge geometry makes these parts slightly more fragile than the Damo original.

Step 4 — Address Parting Lines & Bubbles

Sand parting lines with 800-grit. For air bubbles: apply gap-filling putty, let cure fully, sand flush starting at 400-grit and finishing at 1000.

Phase 3: Dry-Fitting

Assemble the complete kit dry (no glue) onto the FM Aerial inner frame before any painting. Resin tolerances are tighter than plastic. Discovering fit issues before paint is far better than after.

Check: shoulder blocks → arm frame; chest armor → torso frame; shin guards → leg frame; ankle/heel → foot structure. Mark any pieces needing sanding adjustment with pencil.

Phase 4: Priming

Prime in two to three thin coats, not one heavy coat. Use gray or white lacquer primer at 15–20 cm in smooth, even passes. Allow full cure between coats.

Yellow resin requires at least 2 primer coats to neutralize the undertone before white top coats. Use a white primer as your final primer layer if possible.

Phase 5: Painting & GHS Masking System

Color Scheme Overview

• White — primary armor (majority of exterior)
• Cyan/light blue — accents: chest inserts, backpack, visor
• Dark gray — inner frame (paint FM base kit separately)
• Red — small accent points

Using the GHS Masking Tape Set

This is the key upgrade GHS made over the Damo original — pre-cut strips matched to GHS's panel line geometry. Follow this sequence:

1. Apply dark colors first (gray, darks)
2. Apply cyan/blue to all relevant zones
3. Let cure fully (2+ hours for lacquer)
4. Apply GHS masking strips over painted cyan areas
5. Apply white paint over masked areas (3–4 thin coats)
6. Remove masks at 45° angle while slightly tacky — reduces paint lifting at edges

Phase 6–7: Decals, Topcoat & Final Assembly

Panel Washing (Recommended)

After base colors: apply semi-gloss topcoat, then panel line wash (dark gray/black). Let dry 5–10 min. Remove excess with cotton swab dampened with enamel thinner.

Waterslide Decals

Apply semi-gloss topcoat before decals. Soak each decal 10–15 sec, slide into position, absorb excess water, apply decal-setting solution. Let dry 24 hours before final topcoat. Use the GHS decal sheet — not Bandai stock markings — as GHS decals are aligned to the GHS panel geometry.

Final Assembly

Final flat topcoat → glue painted resin shells to FM inner frame with CA glue (sparingly) → reinforce thin antenna bases with a small CA drop → verify Bit Staves seat correctly in backpack.

Common Issues & Solutions

Frequently Asked Questions