Step 1: Inspect & Light-Sand

Even though parts arrive pre-sanded, do a quick inspection under good lighting. Sand any rough areas with 400-grit paper using circular motions. A pre-primed surface is your starting point — a final light pass ensures paint lays perfectly flat.

Step 2: Disassemble Using the Magnet System

Remove arms and head at the magnet connection points. The magnet system was designed with this zone-based painting workflow in mind — painting separate pieces is far easier than working on an assembled figure.

Step 3: Apply Base Coats

Apply color in thin layers — the goal is even coverage, not single thick coats. Thin your paint ~30% for brushwork, 1:1 for airbrush. Allow each coat to fully dry before the next (20–30 min for acrylics).

Tip for white areas: Apply a light gray base coat first. White over gray covers more evenly and requires fewer passes.

Step 4: Mask for Color Separation

Apply fine masking tape along color borders after the base coat is fully dry. Burnish tape edges firmly. Apply second color, remove tape while paint is slightly tacky. The fat chibi's bold color blocks make masking simpler than detail-heavy kits.

Step 5: Panel Lining & Small Details

Apply a thin enamel wash (dark brown or black) over the figure. Let dry 15–20 min, then wipe back with enamel thinner on a cotton swab, leaving color only in panel recesses. This creates depth and definition.

For the Zaku II mono-eye: a dot of pink/magenta followed by a tiny gloss coat creates a convincing "lit" sensor effect.

Step 6: Topcoat & Reassembly

Apply a gloss coat before enamel washes (makes cleanup easier), then seal with a final matte topcoat once all work is complete. Allow 24 hours before reassembly via magnet connections.

Note: Keep magnet connection points clear of paint buildup — mask them during painting for clean contact.